Cali Raised LED Sliders Install Issues

Kgolive

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8-9 week lead time before I received them. Cali Raised emailed me about 6 weeks after ordering to ask me if I have threaded holes on my frame to mount them. Apparently some of the new 4Runners don’t have pre threaded holes on the frame. I checked and I only have two threaded holes on the frame on each side on the bottom of the frame rails. Cali Raised said no problem they have a solution they will be providing. The solution is similar hardware to what Westcott designs uses on theirs. Fast forward to today, install day.

I received two bags of hardware. One bag of bolts and washers for pre threaded holes, another bag of anchoring bolts and washers. It also included a card with a QR code to scan for a video tutorial on how to install them with the included hardware for frames with pre threaded holes. This didn’t apply to me but fortunately Westcott Designs has a YouTube video explaining how to use the supplied anchoring bolts solution. How hard can this be?

Upon installing the driver side slider I learned none of the supplied threaded bolts will thread into the few (2 on each side) pre threaded holes I have on my frame.

No big deal, I can go to Ace for a couple of bolts right? I’ll get to that shortly.

On to the anchoring bolts. I used a sharpie to mark the top side so I knew which way the bolt needs to be positioned for it to remain locked in place. You need a flat head screwdriver to turn it. Since the mounting locations are so high on the frame I had to use a very short flat head screwdriver. Even then I cannot supply enough torque with it to prevent the stud from wanting to turn as I tighten down the nut. I believe this can be remedied by threading two nuts onto the end of the stud and using a wrench to hold the inner nut in place while you tighten the nut against the frame. Maybe this isn’t necessary at all? Maybe once the nut is fairly tight against the frame, it’s ok for the stud to turn because the inner locking mechanism can’t retract under force? I don’t know because there’s no instructions or explanation.

After installing the anchoring bolts on the drivers side I realized they only supplied me with 8 and it would take 12 to do both sides. They gave me maybe 24 washers though. I don’t know why. Am I supposed to double them up? Let me check the install video. Oh wait…

So I’m left with only the drivers side slider semi mounted and not fully tightened until I figure out the proper way to tighten the locking nuts on the anchoring bolts to the frame.

I sent an email to Cali Raised doing my best to describe the issues I’ve run into and lack of proper hardware. I will await their response. I haven’t seen anyone else post about these so either no one else has ran into this problem or I am the only one to post about it.

Thoughts? Am I missing something?

Oh and went to Ace for bolts to go into the threaded holes and couldn’t find a match. So I’m at a loss with what size or thread pitch it requires. The supplied m10 fine thread bolts don’t work and course thread didn’t either.
 

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I'm really sorry for the inconvenience, I also ordered the rock sliders but mine had the 4 holes so install was easy as can be. However, I also ordered the roof rack and they still have no video up for it, but I went ahead and figured it out anyways. Turns out they sent me the wrong hardware for the front valance. They were super nice about it and gave me a pretty solid gift card along with expediting the correct parts.

Mine didn't sit flush, turns out they just bent the piece at the wrong angle. here are pictures for reference.

1761688755002.png
1761688763126.png


Their customer service was super quick, they will certainly help you if they haven't already
 
I emailed them Sunday and called them yesterday. They were as helpful as they could be, but I could tell I was among the first to bring everything to their attention. They’re sending me 4 more of the “blind” anchoring bolts. I believe the hardware they sent for the 4 threaded holes in the frame (2 on each side) is correct but I will need to use a wrench to tighten. I assume the threads have some of the under coating in them, making it difficult to tighten by hand. No gift card for me lol. Hoping to finish installing the driver side and get the other slider on later this week.

Side note - they said to only torque the blind bolts to 18 ft lbs. It doesn’t seem like much for something supporting the entire weight of the vehicle on rocks. I guess we’ll see in time if they hold up or if they break and the slider slams into my rocker panel. Might get that gift card then.
 
I emailed them Sunday and called them yesterday. They were as helpful as they could be, but I could tell I was among the first to bring everything to their attention. They’re sending me 4 more of the “blind” anchoring bolts. I believe the hardware they sent for the 4 threaded holes in the frame (2 on each side) is correct but I will need to use a wrench to tighten. I assume the threads have some of the under coating in them, making it difficult to tighten by hand. No gift card for me lol. Hoping to finish installing the driver side and get the other slider on later this week.

Side note - they said to only torque the blind bolts to 18 ft lbs. It doesn’t seem like much for something supporting the entire weight of the vehicle on rocks. I guess we’ll see in time if they hold up or if they break and the slider slams into my rocker panel. Might get that gift card then.
I had a little mud left in my holes but it wasn't too difficult to hand tighten. I installed them solo with no jacks (don't advise, lol) so I put it on my body, shimmied under, and hand tightened the first two bolts. The first two bolts hand tight were able to support it. I then used a a little socket wrench to tighten them fully.
 
My truck hasn’t left the pavement yet so undercarriage is pretty clean. Just driving an hour and a half to work and back every day so racking up miles. I tried to use a motorcycle jack to hold the slider up to the truck but it was a little too tall so I had to use my legs as well. Since I only have the 2 threaded holes (front top plate) and 6 open holes for blind bolts, it was hard to do by myself but I managed. I partially installed the driver side Sunday and my abs are still sore from the way I was sitting holding it in place.
 
My truck hasn’t left the pavement yet so undercarriage is pretty clean. Just driving an hour and a half to work and back every day so racking up miles. I tried to use a motorcycle jack to hold the slider up to the truck but it was a little too tall so I had to use my legs as well. Since I only have the 2 threaded holes (front top plate) and 6 open holes for blind bolts, it was hard to do by myself but I managed. I partially installed the driver side Sunday and my abs are still sore from the way I was sitting holding it in place.
haha, I know the feeling. I initially tried to use the jack that comes with the vehicle but it would slide off or tip the jack. Way to manage through and get it done!
 
haha, I know the feeling. I initially tried to use the jack that comes with the vehicle but it would slide off or tip the jack. Way to manage through and get it done!
I bought a Mojab compact hydraulic jack I have yet to try. They did a demo for me at the Off Road Expo in Costa Mesa and it seemed to work flawlessly. I used to have a Pro Eagle but it just takes up so much room in the back and is extremely heavy. I'll do a write up on it once I get around to trying it out.
 
I used my floor jack with a 4' piece of 4"x4" and laid the sliders on top and jacked it into position. Steadied the sliders and kept them level.

I have 20 degree Wescott sliders, great sliders, but as usual with most body armor mfg., hardware has a bit to be desired.

.
 
I used my floor jack with a 4' piece of 4"x4" and laid the sliders on top and jacked it into position. Steadied the sliders and kept them level.

I have 20 degree Wescott sliders, great sliders, but as usual with most body armor mfg., hardware has a bit to be desired.

.
Did yours require the blind bolts as well?
 

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