Photo Request: Looking for fuse to connect to in Engine Bay 6th Gen 4Runner

[ClarkeBar]

Oh electrical gurus of 6G4R.....I'm looking for which fuse *in the engine bay* to connect wire tap to for when engine is started. I'll be connecting that to my Garmin Power Switch for a control input. Also what size wire should I be using? I need all the help I can get LOL - Thanks in advance!

 

[Trail4R]

You should reference the thread I wrote for installing the ARB Compressor, specifically wiring leads to the driver-side fuse box. If you prefer to wire it to the box in the engine bay, that's a good reference.

I used the IGN fuse on the passenger side for Ignition power.

Driver Side Fuse Box Diagram: https://6thgen4runner.com/threads/2...er-side-fuse-box-cover-6th-gen-4runner-hybrid

Reference the installation photos (Step 22): https://trail4runner.com/2025/07/24/slee-off-road-compressor-multi-mount-bracket-6th-gen/

 

[ClarkeBar]

Yeah with the Garmin there is no need to go thru the firewall. The fuse box on passenger side is right next to the battery which has the Garmin on top of so at least a short run. Thanks!

 

[ClarkeBar]

@Trail4R I tried both the 20A IGT/INJ MAIN & the EFI MAIN below it 25A. Neither of them worked for me. The pics below are my drivers side fuse box on the TRD Sport Premium. At this point I don't know if I'm trying the correct location or if I'm just not doing the fuse tap correctly.

 

[Trail4R]

Try the 10amp IGN Fuse.

See that image here:

https://trail4runner.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/Slee_ARB_55-50.jpg

 

[ClarkeBar]

Thanks. Looks like I had my fuse tap in backwards as well, actually I see you have another going the other way was well. I do have a light tester coming in tomorrow so I can verify stuff. Thanks for your help. That picture helps a lot.

 

[Trail4R]

Yeah the other fuse is for another circuit on the ARB compressor.

 

[ClarkeBar]

Try the 10amp IGN Fuse.

See that image here:

https://trail4runner.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/Slee_ARB_55-50.jpg

Thanks so much. That worked perfectly. Now people are gonna judge me on how bad this wiring looks LOL. Does anyone have a fuse box riser for the 6th gen?

 

[bkw]

Looks like I had my fuse tap in backwards as well, actually I see you have another going the other way was well.

You can get away with installing either way. The wire does not connect directly to either terminal, so even backwards, the power still goes through a fuse to reach the wire.

One way the tap is before the first fuse and both fuses feed from the bus. The other way the tap is after the original fuse, and the added fuse (and it's load) are added to the the first fuse.

In both cases power goes through the same original fuse to get from the bus to the original load, so no problem there.

It just means the original fuse comes closer to blowing depending on how much the added load is. So it's not ideal but it's not unsafe (as long as you don't change the original fuse to a higher rating) and it also doesn't provide any path to backfeed power into the original circuit or for anything to get around the fuses or anything like that.

Just don't increase the size of the original fuse to compensate, because that would mean that if there was a short or bad component anywhere on the original circuit, and the added circuit didn't happen to be actually adding it's additional load right then, then the fuse would not blow when it should.

There are several unpopulated fuse locations where you can do pretty much whatever you want. You can just look in the socket and see the bus terminal on one side and no terminal at all on the other side. You can test with a meter and see that the one side has power. And with no physical connection on the other side, you don't have to worry about the capacity of any existing wiring. You can install it whichever way fits and just put 2 of the same size fuse, of whatever size you want. The power will go from the bus through one fuse, through the other fuse, to your new load, without going anywhere else.

Maybe none of those unpopulated no-connection spots are on only exactly during ignition. But it sounds like you are using this either just as a sense wire or only to add a pretty small load, so maybe adding the load to the original fuse is no problem. If the original fuse is say 10A, and the original load is only say 5A, and you are only adding say 2A, then 7A is still fine for a 10A circuit.

 

[kophoto4x4]

Thanks so much. That worked perfectly. Now people are gonna judge me on how bad this wiring looks LOL. Does anyone have a fuse box riser for the 6th gen?

You don't need a riser. You can route the wire through the box where all the other wires are going through into the box like near the bottom of the box there is an opening.

 

[ClarkeBar]

Everywhere they exit they seem to be bound and covered together. I'm not sure how to get to the bottom anyway.

 

[ClarkeBar]

You can get away with installing either way. The wire does not connect directly to either terminal, so even backwards, the power still goes through a fuse to reach the wire.

One way the tap is before the first fuse and both fuses feed from the bus. The other way the tap is after the original fuse, and the added fuse (and it's load) are added to the the first fuse.

In both cases power goes through the same original fuse to get from the bus to the original load, so no problem there.

It just means the original fuse comes closer to blowing depending on how much the added load is. So it's not ideal but it's not unsafe (as long as you don't change the original fuse to a higher rating) and it also doesn't provide any path to backfeed power into the original circuit or for anything to get around the fuses or anything like that.

Just don't increase the size of the original fuse to compensate, because that would mean that if there was a short or bad component anywhere on the original circuit, and the added circuit didn't happen to be actually adding it's additional load right then, then the fuse would not blow when it should.

There are several unpopulated fuse locations where you can do pretty much whatever you want. You can just look in the socket and see the bus terminal on one side and no terminal at all on the other side. You can test with a meter and see that the one side has power. And with no physical connection on the other side, you don't have to worry about the capacity of any existing wiring. You can install it whichever way fits and just put 2 of the same size fuse, of whatever size you want. The power will go from the bus through one fuse, through the other fuse, to your new load, without going anywhere else.

Maybe none of those unpopulated no-connection spots are on only exactly during ignition. But it sounds like you are using this either just as a sense wire or only to add a pretty small load, so maybe adding the load to the original fuse is no problem. If the original fuse is say 10A, and the original load is only say 5A, and you are only adding say 2A, then 7A is still fine for a 10A circuit.

Thanks for your help. Now that I have that tester it I can see how to find them. Oddly enough that IG was showing 13amps on my tester (granted it's a cheap tester). I have more sports on Garmin Power Switch for stuff....Lights on top? Hmmm

 

[kophoto4x4]

Everywhere they exit they seem to be bound and covered together. I'm not sure how to get to the bottom anyway.

Its not really at the bottom its on the side but you just run it through and then fish it out through the top super easy and better than a fuse box riser.

 

[ClarkeBar]

Its not really at the bottom its on the side but you just run it through and then fish it out through the top super easy and better than a fuse box riser.


View attachment 3206

Thanks for the pics and explanation! When I was looking at mine it looked too tight to get thru. At this point I would have to make a new cable to run it thru which is going to have to wait until the ladder goes on the pack and figure out how to get a passenger side Lifestyle Sequential Turn Signal to sit right. LOL