Suspension Upgrade - No Lift

[sscarter]

Back in 2019, Trail4r provided some excellent advice for suspension upgrades when I was buying my first TRD ORP (with KDSS, on his advice). I replaced the stock rear springs and installed Bilstein struts and rear shocks and have been happy with them. Had to replace the struts a couple years ago when the spring on one of them broke, and bought the same Bilsteins again.

I'm planning to buy a 6th Gen TRD ORP early next summer (I'll wait until the '26 is available), and am thinking about suspension upgrades. I don't see any reason to lift it, because my off-road driving is generally fairly tame. Rocky mountain roads & 2-tracks are about as rough as it gets -- no rock-crawling. If I have to travel someplace for a photograph where I'd need a lifted vehicle, I can generally rent a Jeep or OHV or hike. I do, however, want the best possible handling on the new 4Runner, both on- and off-road, so am looking at suspension upgrades.

I'm not planning heavy mods like bumpers, winches or roof rack. The weight in the truck consists of a refrigerator and camping/photo gear when on a photo trip.

The more expensive suspension options (OME, Dobinson) seem to assume a lift. Are there good suspension upgrades that don't involve a lift? I'm happy to lift the front to level the truck (as I did the 2019), but am not really interested in an overall lift. From what I can tell, lifting 2-3" can affect fuel mileage and handling, and if I don't really need the lift, why do it?

Also, what about rear springs -- are there worthwhile upgrade options that don't involve a lift?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Steve Carter
https://carterfoto.com

 

[Trail4R]

Hey @sscarter even though OME and Dobinsons quote a lift height on the surface, that doesn't mean you have to set it at that exact height. They usually just quote the lift height as a max lift height option if that makes sense. Both OME and Dobinsons are adjustable via the adjustable perches on the shock body. You can set most of these shocks at factory ride height or close to factory ride height, if that's what you prefer.

Springs are really only needed if you plan on a lift, as that is where you get the actual lift height... a larger/taller spring.

If you just want a better ride quality, all while leaving the factory height the same or maybe 1" - 2" higher (leveling kit), any of these systems would suffice: OME, Dobinsons, Bilstein, etc. It really comes down to price and if you're able to snag one on sale.

Bilstein is still working on their setup, for sure, tried and true. Not sure what their lift height options look like yet.

OME launched the MT64, finally, also a very dialed suspension. It's offered at a max 3" lift height but can be taken down to the lowest perch, which I believe would be a front 1" lift height... essentially a small leveling kit.

https://mudify.com/products/4runner-2025-on-ome-lift-kits

Dobinsons is also a tried and true option that can be set for a 2" leveling kit, a little bit higher than the OME (level the front only):

https://mudify.com/products/4runner-2025-on-dobinsons-lift-kits

Are you opposed to having the front leveled at all, or do you want to 100% stay at the factory ride height all the way around?

I would call Mudify, Shock Surplus, YotaMafia, or anyone else who sells primarily suspension kits and has knowledge of the new gens and tell them specifically what you're looking for.

 

[sscarter]

Brenan,
Thanks very much for prompt reply and advice. I plan to level the front, as I did with my 2019. I didn't realize that OME would allow keeping rear at stock height -- that isn't clear in their description. Calling to chat with vendors such as Mudify is good advice.

Am I silly to think that a 2"-3" lift could adversely affect fuel mileage and/or handling? The majority of my total mileage is actually highway miles, since I drive cross-country a few times a year for seasonal photo trips. Although I spend a lot of time in the vehicle while on location, the daily miles don't amount to as much on the dirt roads & 2-tracks.

While I'd be very happy to have the additional clearance of a 2"-3" lift for rough country, I don't want to adversely affect highway handling (cornering) or fuel mileage for some additional clearance that I rarely need. On the other hand, if highway handling and/or fuel mileage aren't real issues, then I'd reconsider lifting the new truck.

Steve Carter
https://carterfoto.com

 

[Trail4R]

@sscarter If you plan on leveling the front only, then you don't need rear springs at all... just coilovers in the front set to a 1" lift height or 2" lift height and then rear shocks. You don't need upgraded springs in the rear unless you want rear lift height or you plan on adding a significant amount of weight in the back... rear bumper, drawer system, etc.

A 2-3" lift alone won't dramatically affect MPG, but tire size will. If you plan on going up in tire size, say to a 34" tire, for example, that's when you start to see a decline in MPG.

But, all things considered, an OME MT64 kit, or Dobinsons kit set for around 2.5" in the front and a larger 1" rear spring, is not going to dramatically affect MPG, nor will it adversely affect highway handling and cornering performance. If anything, it will help to prevent factory body roll and nose-dive upon braking.

Sounds like you would be happy with the looks and performance of a full kit, with the upgraded springs in the rear. These mid-range budget lift kits do perform very well on road and off-road.

If you're seriously considering MPGs, though, I would recommend staying under a 34" size tire. Even a 33" tire sounds like it would be plenty for you. Something like a 285/75R17.

 

[sscarter]

Excellent advice, thanks!

One final (probably dumb) question -- the TRD ORP comes with 18" wheels. Is the suggestion to step down to a 17" to use the larger tire? Or would it actually be 285/75/18 tire?

 

[Trail4R]

Wheel size doesn't matter. If you're trying to keep your OEM wheels, go with a 285/70R18 size. 32.7-inch tire.

 

[sscarter]

As I've been looking at stepping up to larger size tires on 18" wheels, I've noticed that the taller/wider tires are virtually all 10-ply load range "E". There's almost nothing available in 275 or 285 width, or 75 height, in a 4-ply load range "SL" or equivalent. While I'd like the extra width of a 285 and/or the extra height of a 75 height, if that means moving to a 10-ply tire, I'm not sure it's worth the extra rolling resistance and weight for the driving I do. In the past 6 years I've put 150K on three sets of "SL" tires and never had a problem except one nail that had to be plugged. Are there significant benefits of the 10-ply tires which I'm missing, and would make it worthwhile moving to the "E" tires, for the modest off-road driving I do (mostly rough dirt roads and 2-tracks)?