Peak Suspension 2.25” Collar Lift Installation 6th Gen 4Runner

Trail4R

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Peak_Lock_Stellar_032.jpg


I just wrapped up installing the Peak Suspension 2-piece collar lift kit on our 2025 TRD Off-Road 4Runner and wanted to share some notes and photos for anyone considering this setup.

The kit provides a true 2.25" lift up front and about 2" in the rear, which gave us the clearance we needed to mount a set of 35" Arroyo Mud Terrains on Lock Invader Beadlocks (+25mm offset).

Peak mentions that little to no trimming is needed, depending on tire size and offset, but I can confirm that trimming is definitely required with true 35s, especially with the +25mm wheels. I’ve included detailed shots below showing the full installation process, where trimming was needed, and how the 4Runner sits now.

Find it online: https://www.peaksuspension.com/product/2025-toyota-4runner-2-piece-trail-kit-2-25-lift/ref/18/

Kit details:
  • CNC machined billet aluminum construction
  • Anodized coating for corrosion resistance
  • No cutting or grinding required to install the lift itself
  • Fits all 2025+ Toyota 4Runner models
  • Alignment recommended after installation
  • Designed, tested, and manufactured in the USA
What’s included:
  • Top spacers
  • Lower spring seat adapters
  • Rear Spring Spacers
If you’ve been thinking about a simple and effective way to clear bigger tires without going full mid-travel or long-travel, this kit is a solid choice. Let me know if you have any questions—I’m happy to share more photos or measurements.

If you have access to a shop with a wall-mounted coil spring compressor, that’s going to be the easiest and safest way to remove the spring from the coilover and install the preload collar spacer on top of the lower perch. I’ve used handheld spring compressors before, and they can be pretty sketchy—I wouldn’t recommend doing this in your garage with basic hand tools. That said, if you’re trying to save a few bucks, you can always pull the coilovers yourself at home, then bring them and the spacers to a shop with a proper wall-mounted compressor. That way, you’re only paying for an hour or so of shop time instead of a full install. We took the 4Runner to StellarBuilt in Sacramento for the full installation.

Front Installation​

1. Remove Sway Bar​


Peak_Lock_Stellar_001.jpg


Get started by removing the sway bar in the front. There are two clamps on the frame rail and a mounting point on each lower control arm. Disconnect all four bolts and remove the sway bar.

2. Disconnect Coilovers, Remove Cam Bolts & Drop Lower Control Arms​


Peak_Lock_Stellar_002.jpg


Start by removing the coilover itself. Remove the lower control arm bolt holding the lower shock eyelet in place, and then remove the four bolts in the shock tower. Once the coilover is free, you can use a rubber mallet to knock the lower eyelet off the mount.

You have a choice on how you would like to approach the actual removal of the coilover.
  1. Remove the cam bolts and drop the lower control arms from the frame.
  2. Remove the spindle bolts and drop the lower control arms from the spindle.
After talking to the guys at Stellar Built for a bit, they said that the new spindles on the Tacoma/4Runner have deep-threaded inserts for the bolts and have a tendency to strip if you're not extremely precise with how you reinstall them. Because of this, they prefer to remove the cam bolts and drop the LCA from the frame rail.

3. Remove Coilover and Insert Preload Collar Spacer​


Peak_Lock_Stellar_018.jpg


Once you remove the coilover, it's time to disconnect the top hat and then install the preload spacer.

4. Install Top Hat Spacer​


Peak_Lock_Stellar_035.jpg


Now, mount your coilover top hat spacer. The spacers are driver/passenger side specific, and they can only go on one way. If the holes don't line up initially, just keep rotating the spacer until it drops over the four bolts. Before reinstalling the coilover, prepare the four bolts with red Loctite.

5. Reinstall Coilover​


Peak_Lock_Stellar_037.jpg


Slide your coilover back up and into place, holding it in place with loosely tightened bolts on top of the coilover.

6. Reinstall Coilover on LCAs & then mount LCAs​


Peak_Lock_Stellar_040.jpg


Reinstall the lower shock eyelet onto the lower control arms and remount your LCAs.

Reconnecting the LCAs can be a little bit tricky, but if you have a friend and a long crowbar, it's easier.

With the help of a friend, push the LCAs as close as you can get them to the cam bolt mounts and line everything up. While one person is holding the LCA in place, another can use a crowbar from one point underneath the LCA and another point inside the cam bolt mount. Lift up on the LCA, and it should slide over the crowbar into the cam bolt mount.

7. Reinstall Sway Bar​


Peak_Lock_Stellar_056.jpg


The last step on the front is just to reinstall the sway bar bracket into place, and you're all set.

Again, having a friend help you with all these steps will make everything go much faster and easier.

Let's look at what the rear installation looks like.
 
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Rear Installation​

Step 1. Disconnect Sway Bar Brackets​

Peak_Lock_Stellar_048.jpg


Start by disconnecting the sway bar on both sides of the vehicle.

Step 2. Remove Lower Shock Bolt​


Peak_Lock_Stellar_064.jpg


Remove the lower shock bolt and the shock. The top shock bolt can remain in place; we just need to allow the axle to drop down on both sides to remove and reinstall the springs.

Step 3. Remove Factory Springs​


Peak_Lock_Stellar_061.jpg


Once the shock is off the axle, you can lift one side of the axle to allow the other side to drop down. This will provide enough space for the spring to move around and be easily removed. If you're doing this on the floor in your garage, you can usually just jack up one side of the axle with a floor jack and then repeat the process on the other side.

Here is a look at the factory spring with the top hat, followed by the factory spring with the top hat and Peak Coil Spring Spacer.

The factory spring is about 18" in height, and with the Peak spacer, it measures about 20".

Peak_Lock_Stellar_047.jpg

Peak_Lock_Stellar_051.jpg


Step 4. Install New Springs with Spacer​

Peak_Lock_Stellar_059.jpg

Lift one side of the axle, pull down on the other, and then install your springs with the new spacer.

Step 5. Reconnect Shocks​


Peak_Lock_Stellar_071.jpg


Reinstall your shocks and, lastly, your sway bar bracket. That's it—off to alignment.
 
Another killer guide! This kit is awesome if you're just trying to get off the ground and won't wheel too crazy. Great price point too, all things considered. Arms or no arms.
 
Is there any benefit to adding the Peak UCAs to this kit?
Does adding the UCAs improve the ride quality?
Also, I'm curious if there a a difference in ride quality between Peaks 2.25" lift and Westcott Designs preload collar lift.
 
@Lucky09 UCAs are going to add a bit of caster and fix suspension geometry after a lift, but no real noticeable difference in ride quality.

If you plan on adding bigger tires, UCAs are a must-have for the built-in caster.

If you are looking to achieve the most suspension travel, then UCAs are a must-have.

If you're after ride quality alone, and you only want a leveling kit for looks and on-road driving, you don't really "need" UCAs.

Here is a good post on Westcott Vs. Peak: https://4runnermods.com/blogs/mods/...lift-kits-peak-suspension-vs-westcott-designs

No real difference in ride quality between the two, no. Just comes down to price and exactly what lift height specs you want.
 

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